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Milanese in their 20s flock to this bar on weekdays and weekends, lured by this common formula: cheap-ish drinks small bar = drink outdoors. For the uninitiated, Garten is an author and chef on the Food Network. After the round of fire, we walk back out into the cold, to the cocktail and lager-holding skeptics. The first and only recipe I work with is from Ina Garten.The Santa Barbara wine country, meanwhile, had gone through . I’d been there on previous trips; my memories were of huge slabs of beef slowly roasting over a wood fire to still-bloody perfection, then sliced and served atop delicate French rolls.I remembered the sandwich costing five bucks; if memory served, that was also what the wineries charged for tastings, if they charged you at all.I knew that once I got home I’d be in the mood for nothing more than a mug of mulled wine. ” 95-year-old Patricia Amésquita asks me as I stumble into her patio before sunrise. October, the month of the village’s local saint, Santa Ursula, starts off early.As I catch the last of the fireworks, Patricia offers me a shot of , a shot of pisco, chocolate, garlic, and various herbs, poured from a huge metal kettle wrapped in a t-shirt—a kind of makeshift thermos.Walking past it, it looked like it hadn’t been fired up in a while. The meat inside was cooked to the greyish color favored by hospital kitchen cooks and the current President of the United States.We ordered two tri-tip sandwiches at the counter at a piece, and they were handed to us, foil-wrapped, from beneath a warming light. It was served on what appeared to be slices of grocery store garlic bread.

” From the bench we had huddled around in Via Patellani, a street lined with popular bars south of Milan’s center, everyone runs off to take refuge in a the night’s drinking: €5-lager-in-plastic-cups-if-you-want-to-drink-outdoors or €10-exotic-cocktail-with-ice-even-if-it’s-freezing. I stand, disoriented, numbed hands in pockets, baffled. “La Strada” means “the street” or “the road,” so at least here you know what you’re getting. She also worked in the White House that one time in the 1970s, as a budget analyst.Quemadito translates to something like “burnt drink” in Spanish, but there is no actual burning involved in making it.After trying it, though, it occurred to me that the burning probably refers to how it feels on your throat on a chilly morning.The plan was to grab a couple of sandwiches and eat them over a tasting at the Zaca Mesa winery.My first clue that things had gone, well, sideways: the big grill outside of the R Country Market was unlit.

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